Vintage Floral Brooch with Topaz in Silver, Portugal, c. 1965

When news of the discovery of the rich topaz deposits in Ouro Preto, Brazil, reached Lisbon, the Portuguese court organized a grand celebration. Reports of a “Brazilian ruby”—a new type of gemstone from Brazil—had been circulating since 1751. In 1768, the moment had finally arrived: the discovery of the new gemstones was celebrated with great fanfare at the Portuguese court. However, they were not rubies, but rather magnificent topazes of extraordinary colour. To this day, Brazil remains the most significant source of gem-quality topaz. The Swedish Crown Jewels, for example, include a parure consisting of a tiara, a necklace, and earrings set with large pink topaz, which is worn today by Queen Silvia. This delicate brooch also showcases these wonderful gemstones. The brooch is crafted in the Rococo style and takes the form of a flowering branch. Flowers and plants were a major theme in European fashion and jewellery during the second half of the 18th century. Delicate and colorful “Giardinetti” pieces of jewellery—from the Italian for “little gardens”—are among the most appealing creations of this period. Our brooch meticulously follows these models and presents the colored stones in closed mirror settings made of silver. Even on the reverse, the settings are sculpted and richly detailed, making it difficult at first glance to determine when the brooch was made. The hallmark, however, leaves no room for doubt and reveals that it was crafted in Portugal after 1959. The manufacturer’s mark belongs to António da Costa Marques and was registered that year. The hallmark of the Contrastaria do Porto, which is also present, dates from the period between 1938 and 1984. We date the brooch to the 1960s. This charming piece of jewellery found its way to us from Lisbon.

Estimation:€1,290

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