Vintage Demi-Parure With Rose Cut Diamonds in Silver, Netherlands c. 1955

Diamonds are cut into numerous shapes. The best-known today is the brilliant cut. But in earlier centuries, completely different cuts were far more common! In the 16th century, for example, diamonds were mostly faceted in the rose cut. Numerous famous diamonds, such as the “Orloff” and the “Grand Mogul”, were designed in this rose cut. It is characterized by the fact that the top of the diamond is faceted in a star shape and the bottom is cut flat. This creates a very specific, soft shimmer that is very different from the sometimes harsh glow of today’s brilliant diamonds. Even today, the diamond rose, which originated in the Netherlands, enjoys great popularity among enthusiasts. A wonderful testament to this is the set presented here—a demi-parure of ear studs and a brooch that can also be worn as a pendant. All the pieces are designed as sparkling flowers. One large diamond rose forms the centre of each piece. Around it, C-sweeps set with more diamonds unfold to form the petals. This creates three matching pieces that are reminiscent of late-19th-century jewellery, adding a nostalgic touch. The brooch and pendant are made of gold, with a silver front on each. This allows the roses to emit their soft light most effectively. In fact, this technique, “silver on gold”, was quite common in earlier centuries, as other white metals were not yet available. Here too, we see how much the jewellery takes its cue from historical models and recreates them with masterful craftsmanship. The jewellery was crafted in the Netherlands, as the hallmarks reveal. We discovered the demi-parure in Munich.

Estimation:€3,980

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