Vintage Butterfly Brooch in Gold & Tourmalines, c. 1950

One of the major jewellery trends of the late 19th century was so-called novelty jewellery (from the English novelty = something new, a novelty). This jewellery featured unusual motifs designed to amaze the viewer. For example, small mice and piglets adorned bracelets, while golden bird’s nests containing tiny birds and eggs dangled from earlobes. Everyday objects were also elevated to jewellery motifs: earrings were crafted in the shape of small golden baskets and bird nests, or in the form of silver wells with buckets. Even electrically powered skulls with gaping mouths adorned brooches. Among the more subdued examples of novelty jewellery—and thus those acceptable even in high society—were insects, but above all butterflies crafted from luxurious materials. In July 1888, the women’s magazine Der Bazar recommended jeweled butterflies as part of evening wear for the summer season, to be paired with diamond earrings, a pearl necklace, and matching gemstone-set bracelets (see Der Bazar, July 2, 1888, p. 278). Such a dazzling butterfly is also featured here. This butterfly brooch from the mid-20th century exudes a cheerful and lively spirit. Crafted from 14-karat yellow gold, this piece of jewellery features a filigree openwork design. The wings are filled with the finest spiral tendrils made of delicate gold wires, giving them an airy appearance. Two natural tourmalines—one teardrop-cut and one octagonal—form the butterfly’s body. This beautiful brooch came to us here in Berlin.

Estimation:€1,290

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