Vintage Brooch with Tourmalines & Diamonds in Gold, c. 1950

Flowers and blossoms have been popular motifs in jewellery art throughout the centuries. Naturally, they adapted to the respective fashions: In the late 18th century they were colourful and playful, in the mid-19th century they were set in a flexible ‘en tremblant’ and naturalistic, and finally in the 1920s they were white and cool. The present flower brooch displays the characteristic design language that first emerged in the late 1930s. This late form of Art Deco, also known in English as ‘retro jewellery’, remained popular until the post-war period. The brooch is designed in the form of a bouquet of flowers tied together at the stems. The yellow gold piece of jewellery bears two large blossoms set with a green and a pink-coloured tourmaline. The gemstones are cut into tall cabochons, giving them the appearance of delicious sweets. Golden petals frame the gemstones. The feathered design of the pink tourmaline shows the abstraction of the 1950s. Four beautiful diamonds, which appear like white buds, are set between the coloured gemstones. They are formed in the old European cut and were used here in a secondary application. This was a common procedure in the early post-war period, as the economic miracle was to gradually make the scarcity of materials during the war years a thing of the past. Like the ribbon holding the flowers, the settings are made of white gold. When the brooch is moved, the light plays beautifully with the precious gemstones and on the polished gold surfaces. The glamorous brooch is beautifully preserved and a wonderful eye-catcher on a blouse or lapel.

Estimation:€3,890

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