Splendid Demi-Parure With Diamond Roses in Silver & Red Gold, Austria-Hungary
In the 19th century, one of the most representative pieces of jewellery for a lady was the parure, a matching set of jewellery. Depending on the number of pieces, one speaks of a "grande parure" or "demi-parure". As the "little black dress" of jewellery, a demi-parure was suitable for almost any occasion - the only prerequisite was, of course, that the jewellery followed the fashion of its time. The present set includes a bangle, a pair of earrings, and a so-called pendant brooch, which can be worn in two ways by means of detachable mounts. The pieces are richly detailed, made up of numerous individual forms, yet not overbearing due to the white colouration of silver and diamonds. At the center of each element in the set is a large, clear diamond in a historic rose cut and of watery luster. Numerous small diamond roses occupy the further surface of the pieces. The shape of the individual pieces wonderfully evokes the fashion of those years. The design of the earrings as small, restrained dormeuses, worn close to the earlobe, is entirely in keeping with the sensibilities of their time, for long and large earrings were briefly considered indelicate. A characteristic feature of the bangle is the centrally split hoop, which makes it appear not too heavy despite its massive design. The design for a very similar pendant, dated 1882, but with details a little more in the archaeological style and thus a few years earlier, was published in Brigitte Marquardt: Schmuck. Realismus und Historismus 1850-1895, Munich 1998, p. 238 (cf. last illustration on the right). According to its hallmarks, the set was made in Austria-Hungary and bears stamps used between 1872 and 1922. The earrings were made in Prague, while the bangle was made in Vienna. It is therefore possible that the individual pieces were commissioned by a jeweller from different goldsmiths, or that the earrings were made to accompany the existing set of hoop and pendant brooch. In its original case lined with purple velvet and silk, the set has since been preserved impeccably.
Estimation:€4,980
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