Retro Style Aquamarine and Rose Gold Ring, c. 1940

This ring is opulent. First, its colours: The center features an aquamarine in an intense turquoise blue. The stone, weighing approximately 16.50 ct, is cut in an emerald cut. The stepped facets on the sides create surfaces that glow sky blue when caught in the light. The setting itself is crafted from lustrous rose gold: this, too, is an intense shade, almost copper-colored. The ring’s design is also opulent. The setting arches high above the finger, the sides are sculpted with a pronounced curve, and the lower band is adorned with gold fleur-de-lys motifs. The aquamarine provides a counterpoint: its glossy, smooth surfaces are the very opposite of the gleaming, rounded, flowing forms of the gold. The ring was created around 1940. This was the era of late Art Deco, also known in the English-speaking world as “retro jewellery.” Fashion had moved beyond the white, crystalline forms of the 1920s; pieces of jewellery became more voluminous, and much of it was crafted in gold—as is the case with this ring. The fact that the ring is made of relatively low-karat gold may be due to the circumstances of the time. In any case, the ring was very much in vogue.

Estimation:€5,980

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