Precious Vintage Pendant/Brooch With Rubies & Diamonds in Gold, 1980s

Compelling, beautiful and enchanting jewellery designs have existed throughout every era. The direction taken by designers, however, varied from generation to generation. Modernist artists sought new forms in the realm of geometry, while designers of the 1960s found inspiration in the cool expanses of outer space. Yet, occasionally, the gaze turned towards the past, seeking inspiration to create something entirely new. The piece presented here, crafted in the 1980s, is clearly influenced by the forms of Art Deco – yet it is something unique and distinctive. The fundamental concept is a lozenge set on its point. It is fashioned from high-carat yellow gold and richly adorned with diamonds. The design is divided into two sections: the upper part frames a first ruby pendant, while the lower half is even more lavishly set with rubies and diamonds. The clean lines of the design are reminiscent of Art Deco. The high-quality craftsmanship also draws from early 20th-century jewellery: The piece is composed of several movable elements. Additionally, the diamond settings are so finely executed, and the millegrain edges so delicate, that they rival the finest examples of Art Deco jewellery. What is entirely modern, however, and rooted in its era, is the choice of materials. Setting diamonds in yellow gold was a concept that emerged during the Postmodern period. Earlier eras typically set these white stones in silver or platinum. In the 1980s, however, there was a renewed appreciation for vibrant contrasts. This combination creates a summery, opulent effect. We discovered this piece in Hamburg. We were particularly impressed by its versatility: it can be worn either as a pendant or as a brooch, depending on the occasion or mood. Additionally, we commissioned a detailed report on the piece from Idar-Oberstein, which accompanies the jewellery.

Estimation:€7,590

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