Precious Brooch With Colombian Emerald & Diamonds in Platinum, c. 1930

Culturally, the emerald has been associated with the circle of hope, youth, and new beginnings since antiquity: its vibrant green colour reminded the ancient Romans of spring and the budding of plants. There could be no more fitting gemstone to capture the spirit of renewal during the Art Deco period, that fast-paced and innovative era between the wars. The jewellery designs of those years were so modern that they still appear timeless to us today. A large emerald of 5.75 ct is the protagonist of the jewellery piece presented here, which vividly illustrates the design language of the time. The emerald is set in platinum and almost unnaturally glows with intensity. That the stone comes from Colombia, the source of the finest emeralds, is no surprise. It is especially beautiful that the large stone is particularly clear and only shows a slight so-called “jardin.” The surface surrounding the emerald in the abstractly shaped pendant is set with a total of 4.90 ct of diamonds: large diamonds in the historical old cut and of fine white colour. A series of geometric cuts such as baguette, carré, and trapeze interrupt the field of old cuts vertically, creating a sophisticated contrast of light refractions. The jewel can be worn as both a pendant and a brooch: If the latter is desired, the pendant loop can easily be folded in. However, these functions were only added later, as the piece of jewellery was originally a so-called dress clip, a typical jewellery form of the Art Deco period that was clipped onto the neckline, lapel, or belt. Only in more recent times has the former clip been adapted for wearability. The piece of jewellery is in excellent condition. We were able to discover it in Vienna and have commissioned an independent appraisal that evaluates the quality of the materials used. It will be delivered with the piece of jewellery.

Estimation:€28,190

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