Magnificent Retro Style Pendant With Aquamarine & Diamonds in Gold, 1930s

In the course of the 1930s, fashion changed in the field of jewellery. Not overnight, of course, but in small steps: it became increasingly clear that the previous preference for platinum and cool white shining jewels gave way to jewellery made of warm shining yellow gold. The shapes also changed. Pendants, for instance, had previously been rather flat in design, richly decorated with shadow gaps and milgrains. The new designs, on the other hand, were sculpturally conceived, voluminous, and showcased gleaming smooth surfaces. The pendant here beautifully exemplifies this evolution. It is designed around a large aquamarine, a quality stone from Brazil of about 27.00 ct. The gemstone is set in yellow gold and is encompassed by two strong, wiry frames. Towards the top, the aquamarine is crowned by three small diamonds set in platinum. Behind, the design staggers to the bail via backward curving bands on the right and left. Downward, five leaves of gold appear to grow from the aquamarine. They, too, are enclosed on the outside by a strong frame of gold. Looking at the pendant from the side shows how deeply tiered the pendant is, almost, like a small architecture. This is, of course, due to the large aquamarine in the center - but the design tries not to hide this necessity. It emphasizes its depth through the staggering of the frames, the curved bands, and the curvature of the leaves towards the back and bottom. The small diamonds alone, with their platinum settings and fine milgrains, are still reminiscent of 1920s Art Deco. Yet the generous, almost sculptural use of yellow gold is a new style, a late variation of Art Deco, referred to as "Retro Style". The pendant was created in Germany in the 1930s. Its festive, summery glow was the fashion of the season - and yet it could only gladden hearts for a short while before a long autumn and an almost endless, dark winter would set in. Perhaps because it was worn very little, it is perfectly preserved.

Estimation:€8,980

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