Magnificent Déco Gold Ring with Diamond, Sapphire & Pearl by, Will

An unusual form of jewellery was once created in the Weimar Republic: today it is called "vegetable" jewellery because it is reminiscent of small flower or vegetable beds. Pearls and gemstones peek out from between the tendrils, blossoms and leaves like ripe fruit. Rings in particular, but also brooches and bracelets of this type were mostly made by artist goldsmiths. This type of jewelry developed from the leaf ornaments of the expressive Art Nouveau designs of the Wiener Werkstätten and Theodor Fahrner. It remained popular well into the 1950s. The present ring corresponds to this type. It was created by the artist goldsmith Will Odening, who opened his goldsmith's workshop in Leipzig in 1930. Judging by its design language, the piece of jewellery will not have been created much later. The ring features a large, oval ring face filled with expressionist leaf and fruit ornaments. In between, a cushion-cut diamond, a blue sapphire and a pearl shine as fruits or flowers, as if in a fantastic garden. The seemingly random arrangement of these elements reveals the proximity of this piece of jewellery to contemporary art. A simple bar completes the piece of jewellery made from 14-karat gold. The ring is in excellent condition and came to us from Saxony. For the goldsmith's mark and another of Odening's works, see Christianne Weber: Schmuck der 20er und 30er Jahre in Deutschland, Stuttgart 1990, pp. 270 and 372.

Estimation:€2,490

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