Large vintage brooch with diamonds in gold, Germany 1960s

The 1960s were particularly experimental in the development of unusual jewellery designs. Always on the lookout for innovative ways of expressing themselves, the jewellery designers dealt intensively with the various currents of contemporary art. The aim was to create an independent abstract formal language of jewellery that would stand out from previous styles. Jewellery of this epoch explores the possibilities of the processed material and loves colour contrasts, interesting and unusual structures, daring volumes and expressive reliefs. This resulted in unique pieces of jewellery in which the traces of the manufacturing process were not hidden, but were to be confidently displayed as evidence of genuine craftsmanship. The large brooch presented here is designed in the form of nine interlocking feathery shapes. Like feathers or golden palm fronds, set with sparkling moons of white gold and 45 fine diamonds, the work radiates outwards from its centre. It is a brooch that almost transports us to the Copacabana of those years with its self-assured formal language: In our minds' eye we see elegant ladies with beehive hairdos in front of us, in colourful dresses next to gentlemen in elegant evening suits, surrounded by Oscar Niemeyer's architectures. According to its hallmark, the brooch was made in Germany. Its design shows that the goldsmith who made it was well acquainted with the modern designs of the jewellery avant-garde of his time. Andrew Grima, for example, delighted his London public with similar designs in those years.

Estimation:€7,390

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