Large Retro Style Brooch with Diamonds in Two-Toned Gold, Vienna, c. 1940s

We discovered this large brooch in Vienna. Sparkling diamonds and gleaming gold form a large bow, a knot that appears to hold a lace scarf thrown into folds. A bar made entirely of sparkling white diamonds is set in the middle. To one side is a strong ribbon of red gold laid in loops. On the other side, the lace is made of white gold, set with more diamonds and framed with red gold. The sweeping, powerful design as a stylized fabric hanging is typical of the late Art Déco of the 1940s. After the cool, crystalline look of the previous decades, pieces of jewelry were now created in economically difficult times, with the main focus on reflective, undecorated and shiny metal surfaces. Trade routes had been cut off by the war and gemstones were therefore only used sparingly, often set from older pieces. This change finally came to fruition in the 1950s, when jewelry made entirely of warm yellow gold dominated fashion. On closer inspection, this brooch also shows that the diamonds are set in slightly different cuts. Here too, it is conceivable that they were collected from different sources, perhaps from heirlooms that were combined with newly acquired stones. As a Viennese goldsmith's mark is stamped to the pin, it is very likely that the brooch was made in Vienna. It is in very good condition and is a beautiful and rare example of jewellery from this period of upheaval.

Estimation:€3,980

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