Large "Garland Style" Necklace with Diamonds in Platinum by Tiffany

This necklace appears to be made of nothing but light. We see sparkling bows and, beneath them, glowing garlands of laurel leaves. Curved arches form an elongated, almond-shaped central section, from which two butterfly wings extend downward. All elements are richly set with diamonds. Sparkling diamond teardrops are attached below. A glance at the back of the pendant reveals its origin: the workshops of Tiffany & Co. in New York! Louis Comfort Tiffany and Meta Overbeck, who worked for him, first designed jewellery made entirely of platinum in the 1910s. Previously, Tiffany had used platinum only in the conventional manner—as a gold backing—which was technically simpler but did not yet tap into the full potential of this metal, which was exorbitantly expensive at the time. The lightness and finesse of this pendant would not have been possible if it had been made of platinum on a gold base. It was only with the decision to work entirely in platinum that such delicate bridges—as seen to the left and right of the laurel garlands—became possible, as well as this chain, which is airy and light: It consists of the finest platinum wire, twisted into small loops and elongated spindles: a recurring detail in many of Tiffany’s designs from this period. Many of Tiffany’s designs from the 1910s are more closely related to the Arts & Crafts movement and are richly set with colored gemstones. This pendant is more classic—and perhaps also more European—with its elegant references to the fashionable garland style. It thus demonstrates, on the one hand, that this trend—which developed primarily in Paris—was also in demand in New York. Nevertheless, the necklace is quintessentially Tiffany. This is evident, first, in the choice of materials—focusing entirely on platinum and using only the finest diamonds available: it features more than four carats of very good-quality diamonds. And not least in the details and the quality of the craftsmanship. The pendant is impressively large, yet it is very comfortable to wear, as all elements are connected in a way that allows for movement—securely, but without hooks, scratchy corners or edges, prongs, or anything similar. Wearing it is a pure delight. The necklace is signed and comes with an independent appraisal of its materials from Vienna. Clare Phillips’ book "Bejewelled by Tiffany 1837–1987" (London, 2006) offers a good overview of Tiffany’s designs in the first decades after 1900.

Estimation:€45,980

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