Fabulous Brauch with Agate Cameo in an Archaeological-Style Gold Setting

The late 19th century was captivated by the past. Society was changing; industry had long since transformed the once-quiet towns into large metropolises; and new technologies, such as the telegraph, were bringing the world closer together. In this context, people longed for stability and reliability—and looked back to history to find role models for their own time. Even in earlier times, fashions changed with remarkable regularity, just as they do today. Toward the end of the 19th century, for example, white pieces of jewellery richly set with diamonds were in demand. In the 1880s, however, bold colours set the tone, with a preference for large surfaces of yellow gold and intensely coloured gemstones, as well as gemstones and cameos of all kinds. The brooch presented here exemplifies this fashion. Its basic shape is oval; slightly curved, the brooch extends upward from its base and features at its center a finely cut cameo made of hardstone—a dark agate against which a group of mythological figures stands out in white. We see a standing female figure with a shield and spear, looking to the right next to a peacock. The armored goddess is likely to be identified as Juno Curitis, the valiant protector of the community. The peacock accompanying her clearly identifies her as Juno, while her armor and weapons emphasize her powerful, warlike appearance. It is noteworthy that her shield is adorned with a large face that smiles with closed eyes. Delicate ornaments made of twisted gold threads and small gold beads form a regular pattern across the surface of the frame and, in the so-called “Archaeological Style,” echo the motif of the cameo, which draws its inspiration from Classical Antiquity. On the reverse side is a glass-enclosed compartment where photographs or personal mementos can be stored. The brooch combines three major trends from around 1880: a preference for photo lockets, for cameos depicting mythological scenes, and for goldsmith work in the “Archaeological Style.” We discovered this unusual brooch in Münster.

Estimation:€1,490

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