Exquisite Clover Pendant-Brooch with Grey Natural Pearls, c. 1890

As small wonders of nature, jewels from the sea, natural pearls were valued similarly to diamonds of the same size before the invention of cultured pearls. This preciousness can also be explained by the patience, and hard work involved in recovering and matching these pearls. The three extraordinary natural pearls in this piece of jewellery, too, had to be found and retrieved from the ocean floor by divers with the greatest of effort; they traveled around the world and finally awaited their perfect match to become, at long last, this precious arrangement set among diamonds in silver and gold. The three pearls are of grey colour, yet each has its own subtle nuance: the lightest has a slight brownish tint, another shimmers with a hint of purple, and the darkest is nearly black. Each pearl also displays a subtle orient in delicate greenish and aubergine tones that shifts depending on the angle of the light. Even under a magnifying glass, it is a true delight to marvel at these little treasures of nature. The natural saltwater pearls are set in a diamond cloverleaf—a design that was particularly popular toward the end of the 19th century for showcasing various natural pearls. A similar cloverleaf brooch with multicolored pearls was, for example, once owned by Empress Sisi of Austria; today it is housed in the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna, Inv. SK_WS_XIV_194. As evidenced not only by the design but also by the craftsmanship and the diamond cuts, our piece was created around 1890. We have included an image of a comparable design from 1887, published in the Parisian design collection Le Bijou. To ensure that the investment in such a gem was worthwhile, it was designed to be versatile, like many precious jewels of that era. Thus, it can be worn as a pendant—though originally, a hairpin could also be screwed onto the back. Shortly thereafter—probably not long after the piece was created—a pin was also added so that the pearls could be worn as a brooch. We deliver this precious piece of jewellery with an independent appraisal certifying the quality of the materials.

Estimation:€6,980

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