Exquisite Brooch with a Mauve-Coloured Natural Pearl and Diamonds

The late 19th century was the golden age of diamond jewellery. The precious, brilliant diamond was considered the quintessential stone for representative affairs. But in those changing times, when any wealthy person could buy the most lavish diamond jewellery—which had previously been the privilege of the aristocracy—one gemstone was considered even more exclusive: the pearl. Large, natural pearls—especially those of rare and particularly beautiful colours—could not simply be mined on a whim, cut to the desired shape, and purchased at a jeweller’s. In the era of pearl diving, before the commercial breakthrough of pearl farming, every pearl was unique and a stroke of luck. One waited for the perfect pearl, sometimes for years. If such a pearl then found its way to a renowned jeweller, it was available only once—and the jeweller had to carefully consider which wealthy family to give priority to when selling it, so that the family would carry on the jeweller’s name. This is just such a pearl. It is a natural saltwater pearl of an ethereally beautiful hue that is difficult to describe: Somewhere between a powdery rosé and a cool, subtle lavender, with a delicate lustre and a wonderful iridescence—the so-called “Orient”—that allows pink and copper-colored reflections, as well as green and bluish ones, to glide across the surface. The teardrop shape is slightly baroque. It is set as the centerpiece of a precious diamond brooch in the shape of a bow, as would have been worn around 1890 at the neckline of an evening gown. The brooch shows minor, older restorations on the reverse. It is possible that it was assembled at an earlier date as a “mariage” of various elements created around the same time: The central diamond between the large diamond and the pearl’s setting, as well as the sleeve-shaped setting of the pearl itself, originate from a different context than the bow. However, all elements were likely created around the same time, and the assembly was carried out with historical sensitivity. In its current form, the brooch is reminiscent of the Kensington Bow Brooch, which Queen Mary—then still Princess May—received on the occasion of her wedding in 1893 and wore frequently. A rare jewel. The brooch comes with an independent laboratory report on the pearl.

Estimation:€23,890

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