Expressive bird of paradise brooch in gold, rubies & diamonds, ca. 1950

This bird of paradise brooch is not only a quintessential midcentury jewel, but likewise a first-class conversation piece. Dating to circa 1950, it perfectly embodies the taste of the post-war era: warm gold tones such as red and yellow, combined with colourful gemstones that lend themselves especially well to figurative motifs. While the piece still shows characteristics of the late Art Déco style, its design anticipates the vividly coloured, figural novelty jewellery of the 1950s. The iconic bird of paradise motif was a brooch trend heralded by maisons such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, under whose influence this brooch, too, was created with masterful attention to detail. The bird's feathers are engraved, adding depth and detail. Rubies, sapphires and diamonds, mainly calibré-cut, emulate the bird's rich colouring as well as that of the flowering branch the bird is seated on. The gold shows the rare purity of 390 (approx. 9.5 ct), a purity used in Austria but never hallmarked. The piece was likely made in Vienna. A large double pin on the back allows the pin to be worn on heavier fabrics and furs as well. This type of pin is often found on midcentury pieces, seeing as they were popularly worn on fur coats. Its design and excellent craftsmanship make this brooch a true collector's piece for those who appreciate midcentury design. At once elegant and extravagant, the brooch remains eminently wearable until today.

Estimation:€5,980

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