Enchanting Brooch by Theodor Fahrner With Four Turquoises, Pforzheim ca. 1955
Theodor Fahrner made artists' jewellery affordable because he combined modern forms with democratic materials. He did not create individual pieces for a small elite, as was the case with Lalique or Cartier. Instead, the designs were mass-produced in silver, decorated with enamel, marcasites, and occasionally precious stones. Jewelers and department stores throughout Europe sold the jewellery, which Fahrner advertised extensively in journals and magazines: "Fahrner jewellery - based on designs by the best artists" allowed every woman to participate in a modern life full of beauty. In the history of jewellery from Art Nouveau and Art Deco, Fahrner jewellery from Pforzheim therefore occupies a special place. For Theodor Fahrner and later his successor Gustav Braendle understood like hardly any other jewellery manufacturer of the modern era how to make artistically convincing designs and quality workmanship the hallmark of their brooches, necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Salesmen with large sample cases presented the new designs developed in Pforzheim to local jewellers every year. One such sample case full of unworn Fahrner jewellery had lain untouched in an attic for the last 40 years or more until it was offered to us. It contained samples of almost all series from about 1919 until the dissolution of the company in 1979, most of them with a model number or the "Original Fahrner" seal. The brooch here is therefore also unworn and perfectly preserved. The brooch comes from the "Filigree Jewellery" series, which was developed in the 1930s. Designed as a group of four cushions, each element holds a turquoise in the center. Since the middle of the 19th century, this gemstone was already used because of its colour similarity to forget-me-nots, so the light blue stones often decorate love gifts. Fine twisted wires occupy the squares of the brooch: they gave the series its name. A wonderful overview of the wealth of designs is offered in the catalogue "Theodor Fahrner. Schmuck zwischen Avantgarde und Tradition", edited by Brigitte Leonhardt and Dieter Zühlsdorff, Stuttgart 2005. The series in question here can be found there on p. 226f. The brooch is made of silver that has been lightly gilded. This kind of gilding is called "antique gilding" by Fahrner. It has a cool, slightly greenish-gold tone, by which Fahrner jewellery can be easily identified. The brooch was probably made in the 1950s and bears the original Fahrner label with the old order number as well as the original Fahrner metal seal. Fahrner jewellery is often collected. Discover all the other pieces of Fahrner jewellery we offer at this location.
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