Elegant Ring with Sapphire & Diamonds in Platinum, c. 1930

Art Deco pieces of jewellery are known for their daring geometric shapes. At the height of the style, designers succeeded in creating new, convincing designs from a few basic shapes, thus leaving traditional historical forms behind. This development can be seen wonderfully in this ring. The front is designed as an oval. A dark blue cabochon-cut sapphire occupies the center. The stone of around 4.00 ct is very transparent, intense and uniformly blue. It is surrounded by a frame of approximately one carat of shining white diamonds in the so-called transitional cut, an early form of the modern brilliant cut. The oval is interrupted on the long sides where the ring band begins. One baguette-cut diamond is set slightly higher in a rectangular bezel setting. The front is therefore divided into an oval, which is interrupted by two rectangles. The oval and with it the sapphire are aligned towards the finger, which has a natural effect and emphasizes the length of the finger. At the same time, the rectangles on the ring shoulders add a subtle counter-movement. There is a tension in the design that arises solely from the basic geometric shapes of the oval and rectangle. The design is completely in tune with the times. One could even mistake the design for a ring from a much later period, when these shapes became fashionable again, e.g. from the 1990s. However, the side view clearly indicates that it was created around 1930. The underside of the ring is decorated with the finest saw work, engravings and milgrains, in exquisite craftsmanship that could not have been created at any later time. We see symmetrical tendrils and fine bars made of platinum, the shapes of which are still developed from the tradition of goldsmithing. Perhaps the goldsmith who carried out the work was himself a little frightened by his own daring, which he had demonstrated in the design of the front? But this true tour de force was certainly intended to demonstrate his skill and mastery. The ring is in excellent condition. We were able to acquire it here in Berlin.

Estimation:€4,490

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