Elegant Necklace with Amethyst and Natural Pearl in Rose Gold by Liberty
“The studio was filled with the rich scent of roses, and when the light summer breeze stirred among the trees in the garden, the heavy scent of lilacs or the more delicate fragrance of the pink-flowering rosebush drifted in through the open door.” – Oscar Wilde, The Picture of Dorian Gray, 1890. The alluring scent of blossoms carried on a light summer breeze opens Oscar Wilde’s novel The Picture of Dorian Gray—the book that took turn-of-the-century aestheticism to its extreme. Yet Wilde was no exception with his novel. The sense of beauty, subtle moods, and refined elegance outlined here in a few words prevailed in all areas of the arts—in literature, fashion, and jewellery—well into the early years of the 20th century. This pendant dates from that era and brings the elegance of those years to life. An oval frame with a front face of white enamel is attached to a delicate, finely crafted rose gold chain. At the top, the frame is intertwined in an abstract bow; toward the bottom, its shape swells out slightly. Small black dots punctuate the white front surface, giving the enamel the appearance of fabric or woven material. Suspended within the frame is a large, very delicate violet amethyst set in a red gold setting. Another short chain extends the pendant downward, playfully intersecting with the frame and bearing, at the very bottom, a natural river pearl, likely from the Mississippi River in the United States. The color palette is warm and summery. The tones are gently modulated; nothing veers into extremes—everything is artful, charming, elegant, and refined. There is no ostentation or showy pomp here; rather, it is precisely the joy of subtlety that has guided the design. A design that grows more beautiful with every glance. It is therefore no coincidence that the necklace comes from what is arguably the most famous center for artist-designed jewelry in Great Britain: the collection of the London department store Liberty & Co. Arthur Lasenby Liberty founded the company in London in 1875, initially as a shop for Oriental fabrics and arts and crafts. C. 1900, Liberty became the leading patron of British Art Nouveau. In Italy, Art Nouveau was even simply referred to as Stile Liberty—a testament to how profoundly the company shaped the perception of this new design language. The pendant is signed on the back; the hallmarks suggest that it was also made in Great Britain. We discovered it in London and paired it with a matching gold chain.
Estimation:€1,890
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