Elegant Brooch with Diamonds, Pearls & Black Enamel by Martin Mayer

Today it is often unjustly forgotten. In earlier times, however, brooches were an indispensable part of every jewellery wardrobe. How they were worn depended on the prevailing fashion, as no other piece of jewellery is as closely linked to clothing as the brooch. Around c. 1900, collar brooches were fashionable with high-necked blouses, but by the 1920s they were already outdated. Instead of high-necked blouses, dresses with narrow straps were now fashionable, which called for a new type of brooch: the so-called "shoulder pin", as American jewelry catalogues of the time put it. "The shoulder pins are probably the most admired pieces of jewellery to-day," wrote the jewellery company S. Kind & Sons from Philadelphia in 1924. We have reproduced an advertisement from the same company from 1925. These "shoulder pins" were characterized by the fact that they had a narrow round, oval or rectangular frame and a free space inside through which the silk strap of the dress could shimmer. A photograph of the actress and Ziegfeld Follies revue dancer Betty Compton from the 1920s, for example, illustrates the dressiness of such a brooch wonderfully (see last photo). Our brooch was also once intended as a luxurious eye-catcher for an evening dress. The gold oval is covered with black enamel. At the four ends, platinum elements with natural pearls and diamonds set shimmering white accents which, together with milgrains, enhance the play of light and shadow on the monochrome brooch. The hallmark reveals that it was created in the bijouterie factory of Martin Mayer in Pforzheim. This beautiful piece of jewellery is in excellent condition and ready to adorn a silk strap, scarf or other item of clothing of your choice once again.

Estimation:€1,190

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