Elegant Belle Époque Pendant Brooch with Diamonds in Silver and Gold, ca. 1890

This piece of jewellery, which serves as both a brooch and a pendant, features a harmonious palette of white tones: old-cut diamonds are set in silver. They form a flower designed in concentric layers. An old-cut diamond occupies the center; the piece features a total of approximately 0.75 ct of diamonds. The fact that the diamonds were set in silver is typical of the late 19th century. White gold or platinum were not yet available, but the jewellery was intended to sparkle brightly—without a yellowish tint—under the newly introduced gas lighting. The back of the piece is made of gold to prevent discoloration of clothing or skin. In addition to this rather technical characteristic of the brooch, its shape also allows us to date the piece to around 1890. The elegant arches and the symmetrically designed leaf shapes repeatedly taper into fine, so-called “knife-wire” strands. These narrow bars are very slender when viewed from the front, like the blade of a knife, creating an airy impression. Their depth, however, gives them stability. With the adoption of platinum—a metal far more dimensionally stable—a few years later, this technique would fall out of use; around 1890, however, this was the standard method. The piece of jewellery, whose brooch clasp is detachable, is in excellent condition. Compare it also with similar pieces discussed in the literature in David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewelry, Woodbridge 2010, pp. 229 ff.

Estimation:€3,390

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