Delicate brooch with old European cut diamonds in platinum, around 1910

Designs like this one were aptly called "dessins dentelles" in the early 20th century: For they appeared so light and filigree that they were reminiscent of fine lace. This delicacy was only made possible by the use of platinum, which began its triumphant advance during the Belle Époque. Its special hardness made it possible to reduce the amount of metal required while at the same time maintaining stability - this enabled goldsmiths to create filigree designs that were not possible in pure gold or silver. No other precious stone was as popular in these creations as the diamond, whose brilliance and white colour perfected the ethereal impression. A total of about 4.17 ct of old European cut diamonds were also used in the present brooch and occupy the entire surface except for the fine so-called knife edges, which connect the individual elements of the concentrically constructed design with millimeter precision. No matter how the brooch faces the light, at least one of the diamonds always catches it to reflect it radiantly back. The finest milgrain settings also line the bars and settings of the diamonds, making the brooch appear even more detailed. The design looks like a Gothic rose window, or like a delicate spider's web set with dew; associations that were not alien to the era, which loved all things dreamy and ethereal. Thus the brooch appears as if it could hardly have been created by human hands - and yet, quite mundanely, it was once worn to festive soirées and balls, for diamond jewellery was reserved for the evening and thus for the new electric lighting, which made the white jewels shine and sparkle as never before.

Estimation:€8,390

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