Colourful Antique Gold Brooch with Opal, Burmese Rubies & Enamel, Savoy c. 1845

This brooch can be clearly attributed—based on its hallmarks—to northwestern Italy and dates to the middle decades of the 19th century. At that time, the region formed the Kingdom of Sardinia, which encompassed not only the territories of today’s Piedmont and Savoy but also extended into neighboring French areas. The cultural and economic prosperity of these lands was reflected, not least, in a vibrant tradition of gold- and silversmithing, renowned for its finely crafted jewelry. In the first half of the 19th century, the Kingdom of Sardinia developed into a political and industrial pioneer, helping to drive the Italian Risorgimento. From Turin, reforms, economic modernization, and an increasingly liberal state policy were advanced. This ultimately led to the national unification movement, whose decisive breakthrough came in 1861. In that year, Vittorio Emanuele II, Duke of Savoy and King of Sardinia, was proclaimed the first king of a united Italy. Our brooch originates from this milieu and is crafted from high-carat gold. It is oval in shape with a domed front. At its center shimmers an opal of milky white. The stone is very likely a Hungarian opal, as Australia’s opal deposits had not yet been developed at that time (see also “Learn more” below). Four untreated rubies from Burma accompany the central stone. Cut as cabochons, they glow an intense pink-red, enhancing the brooch’s vivid color palette. The surface of the brooch is richly decorated with floral engravings and colorful enamel work. In its formal language, choice of colors, and motifs, it shows a strong affinity to Savoyard traditional dress. To illustrate this, we have included an example of a costume from the Tarentaise. The brooch is wonderfully well preserved and a high-quality piece of jewelry from the era of the Italian Risorgimento.

Estimation:€2,290

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