Antique Persian Gold Necklace with Engraved Turquoises & Natural Pearls

Like a string of precious verses, this extraordinary antique necklace drapes around the neck. Eight large Persian turquoises are set in finely crafted yellow gold settings; their hues evoke a glimpse into the waters of crystal-clear sea coves. Persian characters and ornamental motifs have been carved into the smooth surfaces of the slightly irregularly cut turquoises and subsequently inlaid with gold. According to its Persian former owner, the inscriptions are said to refer to an ancient Persian love poem. Undoubtedly, the necklace embodies the ancient Persian belief that the written word is not only a vehicle of meaning but also an object of beauty in its own right. The curving characters transform the stones into precious calligraphic forms. Through them, poetry becomes wearable. Each turquoise stone is framed by a delicate wreath of small natural pearls. Their softly shimmering white highlights the colour of the turquoises and gives the individual links the appearance of small windows bathed in light. Additional natural pearls are set into the fine golden connecting chains that link the elements together. At the center is a larger, tall oval cartouche, beneath which a freely suspended, teardrop-shaped turquoise serves as the finishing touch. The closed backs of the turquoise settings are also engraved and adorned with characters. The necklace thus bears the text from the front once again, turned toward the wearer’s body. In this way, it speaks, as it were, in two directions, creating a dialogue between the wearer and the giver. This interplay between public and intimate levels of meaning is one of the necklace’s most fascinating qualities. Turquoises have been particularly prized stones in Persia for centuries. The country’s major deposits yielded these minerals, whose incomparable blue became the epitome of Persian turquoise. As seen here, in combination with gold, natural pearls, and calligraphic inscriptions, turquoise was also an integral part of a time-honored courtly jewelry tradition. At the same time, the necklace’s design—composed of interconnected cartouches—draws on far older forms of Persian goldsmithing, as seen in Persian miniatures from earlier centuries. This magnificent necklace was likely created in Persia during the late Qajar period, c. 1900. It combines the beauty of precious natural materials with the high art of Persian calligraphy. The result is a piece of jewellery with a literary character: a poem crafted from turquoise, gold, and pearls—love poetry made visible.

Estimation:18.980€

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