Antique Locket Brooch with Amethyst and Pearls in Enamelled Gold, c. 1865

Are you familiar with the term "horror vacui", the fear of emptiness? The art critic Mario Praz coined it when he described the late 19th century's love of excessive ornamentation. Floral patterns covered the walls and upholstered furniture of Victorian living rooms, and clothes and jewels could not do without multiple colors and patterns. Hardly any surface was allowed to remain without ornament. From today's perspective, in which it seems a fear of ornament is cultivated, this antithesis to the omnipresent minimalism can be quite refreshing. This brooch demonstrates just how magnificent such an ornamental piece of Victorian jewellery can be. Its centerpiece is a large cabochon-cut amethyst that has been set over a foil, giving it a wonderfully deep, mystical shine with shimmering light effects. A star motif of diamond roses and a natural pearl is embedded at the top. A frame of further natural pearls and gold unfolds around it; engraved floral ornaments are embedded here as recesses in the black enameled frame. The reverse shows us that the love of opulent beauty at the time was not superficial at all. There is a glazed medallion compartment that can be opened to carry a personal memento, such as a lock of hair or a photo. There is also a hook on the back for threading a ribbon or narrow chain so that the piece can also be worn as a pendant. Another bail was originally designed for a separate safety chain, but it can also be used to thread a delicate chain through. For dating, see for example Shirley Bury: Jewellery. The International Era, Vol. II - 1862-1910, p. 458. Our brooch was likely also made in England.

Estimation:€2,390

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