Antique gold, pearl & diamond brooch, England, Dated 1889

The brooch that we discovered in London has an engraving on the back that is initially surprising. "In Memoriam / Oct. 5, 1889" is engraved into the gold. However, the design of the brooch initially seems anything but sad! A fully blossomed flower unfurls from the gold, its shape reminiscent of a cornflower. Its petals are enlivened by fine natural pearls. A diamond rests in the center. In the 19th century, death was a constant companion of life. Dealing with loss was part of everyday life, and jewellery played a special role in this. It served not only as an ornament, but also as a reminder and a silent expression of solidarity. Mourning jewelry followed fixed social conventions, but changed over time. Towards the end of the century, its form became increasingly in line with contemporary tastes and less strict than in earlier decades. In this context, pearls were seen as a symbol of shed tears, while diamonds were ascribed the meaning of lasting love in the language of gemstones, the so-called "gem lore". In this brooch, both elements combine to create a quiet visual language that does not exhibit grief but transforms it into something beautiful. Who this brooch was once intended to commemorate is lost in the darkness of history. However, the engraved date still allows a precise chronological classification and allows the brooch to be dated to 1889 or the immediate period before.

Estimation:€1,790

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