Antique Gold Necklace with Aquamarines, British, c. 1905 & later

Gold necklaces, featuring delicate and openwork designs, were an integral part of Edwardian jewellery fashions. They were set with pearls and what were then known as “semi-precious stones”—most notably amethysts and peridots, garnets, and aquamarines. These stones had gained popularity in the wake of the Aesthetic Movement, for in light of the virtually ubiquitous diamond opulence of the Belle Époque, people began to appreciate coloured gemstones primarily for their artistic colour effects rather than solely for their value. When this gold and mother-of-pearl necklace with damaged center stones came to us, we therefore decided to have aquamarines cut and set to match. Thanks to the closed gold settings, the naturally brilliant aquamarines take on a luminous, delicate shade of green that makes them appear almost like green beryls—the mineral siblings of aquamarine. They are accompanied by curved arches and trefoil elements, which stylistically bring the design closer to the neo-Gothic style that was once again popular around the turn of the century. The beautiful design thrives on the interplay of colours and imaginative shapes. The piece came to us from Great Britain.

Estimation:€1,890

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