Antique Gold Beetle Brooch with Tiger's Eye, Sapphires, and Diamonds

In the last third of the 19th century, a new fashion trend took hold in the major cities of Western Europe: pieces of jewellery in the shape of insects found their way onto the wearers as brooches, pins, or hair ornaments. Spiders, bees, butterflies, dragonflies, and even beetles served as “novelty jewellery” at dinner parties and soirées, sparking lively conversations. Beetles, in particular, were all the rage among people in the 1880s. The gown that Ellen Terry wore in 1888 in her role as Lady Macbeth—now on display at Smallhythe Place,, was embroidered all over with iridescent green beetle wings. Real beetles, set in gold, were known as “Cleopatra Ornaments,” inspired by ancient scarabs. The famous Lady Granville parure, created around 1885, now in the British Museum, is an example of beetle jewelry in the Egyptian style. A few ladies even dared to wear live beetles as scarabs on chains around their necks, a choice that drew more than just admiration. This brooch takes inspiration from that fashion trend to delight us with its shimmering setting. The wings of the May beetle are formed from two polished tiger’s eyes, which shimmer beautifully and change their appearance with every movement. The beetle’s eyes consist of two blue sapphires, while its body is set with sparkling rose cut diamonds. The brooch is crafted from 18-karat gold with a fine satin finish; the diamond settings are made of patinated silver. For more on this trend, see, among others, David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewelry, Woodbridge 2010, page 234.

Estimation:€1,890

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