Antique Coral Cameo Set in Gold Cannetille Filigree, c. 1820

Gemstone jewelry was already popular in Roman antiquity and experienced a new heyday, first during the Renaissance and later during the Neoclassical period. Nearly every wealthy lady—and many gentlemen as well—owned cut gemstones featuring depictions from classical antiquity. People were captivated by the grand narratives of antiquity, and so on the pieces of jewellery from those years we encounter not only deities but also philosophers, emperors, and heroes from the world of ancient mythology. This brooch depicts one of the most famous figures in Greek mythology: Apollo, the son of Zeus and Leto. He was the god of music, poetry, and prophecy; as Apollo Musagetes, he led the procession of the nine Muses and was regarded as the protector of the arts. The famous oracular sanctuary at Delphi was also dedicated to him; its prophecies could determine the fate of rulers and entire peoples. Unlike a two-layered shell cameo, the portrait here is carved entirely from a single piece of Mediterranean coral. Its warm, salmon-red hue lends the finely modeled relief a physical vitality. Apollo is depicted in an idealized three-quarter profile with a straight nose, a high brow, and carefully swept-back curls. His characteristic hairstyle references the so-called Apollo Belvedere, that famous ancient marble statue that has been admired for centuries as the epitome of youthful beauty and perfect proportions. The coral cameo is surrounded by an ornate cannetté setting. The finest gold wires are twisted into small spirals, lending the setting a three-dimensional effect despite its delicacy. This elaborate goldsmithing technique was particularly popular in the years around 1820 and is further evidence of the piece of jewellery’s age. Thus, the piece of jewellery combines two major characteristics of its era: the enthusiasm for ancient art and the virtuosity of early Romantic goldsmithing. For all those with an artistic flair, admirers of classical mythology, and those who still wish to climb the steps of Parnassus, a more beautiful companion could scarcely be imagined.

Estimation:€1,290

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