Antique Brooch with Foiled Garnets and Seed Pearls, British, c. 1820

This brooch transports us to Britain, to the first half of the 19th century—the reign of King George IV. The numerous overseas colonies had made the British wealthy. Precious stones from all over the world found their market in London, so it is no surprise that a great deal of jewellery was created featuring wonderful, sparkling gemstones. The brooch is oval in shape and features a central oval-cut garnet framed by a wreath of small natural pearls and an outer border of round garnets. The stones, set in closed, leaf-shaped settings, glow with the deep red colour of cherries. Even after two centuries, they still sparkle with deep, expressive brilliance. Their flat cut also lends them considerable brilliance, a quality rarely seen in later garnet jewelry. We discovered this well-preserved brooch in England, where it was likely also crafted. In the English-speaking world, this type of brooch—which was very popular in the early 19th century—is also commonly known as a “lace pin” or “fichu pin,” as it was used to pin a shoulder shawl, known as a fichu, to the neckline. Presumably, a glass-covered compartment containing a lock of hair once occupied the space where the central garnet is now set, as indicated by the engraving on the reverse. At that time, hair ornaments were not reserved solely for mourning: the hair of the living was also worn as an expression of closeness and connection. That this was indeed the case here is evident from the original surround of red garnets, too cheerful and decorative for mourning or memorial jewellery.

Estimation:€690

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