Antique Brooch with Diamonds in Bloomed Gold, Birmingham 1906

Three radiant diamonds are set here in star-shaped settings. This setting is a typical element of antique British jewellery: the goldsmith carved rays into the gold by hand and set the diamond in the tiny amounts of precious metal thus recessed. A true masterstroke! The gold of the brooch is just as radiant and festive as the diamond stars themselves. Thanks to the so-called "bloom finish", which became popular in the second half of the 19th century, it shines in a rich, velvety gold tone whose matt surface beautifully highlights every detail. This type of fine gilding is achieved by immersing a piece of jewelry made of gold in an acid bath, which dissolves the alloy metals: what remains is a fine layer of pure gold. The shape of the brooch and its decoration are based on the jewelry fashion of the 1880s. However, it was not made until 1906, as the date letter on the back shows, and the diamonds already show the rounder cut of the still young century. This is not unusual, especially for jewellery from the British cities of Chester and Birmingham: once found, slightly varied shapes were appreciated by a wide range of buyers. Those who could not constantly afford new jewellery preferred to buy tried and tested, dignified forms rather than the very latest in capricious fashion. A brooch that, despite its date of origin during the so-called Edwardian Era, is one thing above all: very Victorian! We were able to discover it in London.

Estimation:€1,290

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