40th Anniversary Brooch with Diamonds and Emeralds, Vienna, c. 1910

This brooch celebrates 40 years. Whether for a birthday, wedding anniversary or any other anniversary: shining emeralds form the number "40", while a laurel wreath made of diamonds forms the sparkling frame. The brooch is as simple as it is effective. The base is formed by a lattice of platinum bars, the intersections of which are set with small diamonds. This type of design was fashionable in the years c. 1910, when platinum work first became more widely available. The anniversary number is then placed in the center. The two numbers are composed of emeralds from Brazil, which are set in delicate plain settings. This type of setting with so-called "calibrated" stones was also a major innovation in the early years after 1900. It required great skill and precision on the part of the gem cutter as well as the goldsmith and gem setter. Finally, the laurel wreath on the outside is also a typical design element of early 20th century fashion. The so-called "Garland Style" loved garlands and laurel wreaths, crossed ribbons and flower arrangements. The already very graphic design and the single-cut diamond trimming suggest that the work was created in the final years before the First World War, at the last peak of taste and luxurious living shortly before the great catastrophe. The brooch came to us from Vienna and has survived in its original case from the Viennese jewelers Schwarz and Steiner, who ran their business at Kärtnerstraße 10 from 1908. "The company enjoys a good reputation abroad and is popular with the aristocracy as well as bourgeois circles," reported the Zeitschrift für Orden- und Titelverleihung in 1913, see here. The quality of the brooch shows that the company's reputation was based on the quality of its pieces of jewellery. It is perfectly preserved and makes a wonderful gift.

Estimation:3.980€

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